More of Amsterdam: The Jewish Historical Museum

Kim, Jean, and I all agreed that our most favorite cultural experience was the Jewish Historical Museum. Because we had dinner plans outside of the city, we left sooner than we'd ideally wanted and we all agreed it was an excellent experience. It was very engrossing and educational. Since 1987 the museum has been housed in a complex of four restored synagogues in the heart of Amsterdam's former Jewish quarter.

One of the highlights for me was a temporary exhibit regarding The American Colony. The colony was established in 1881 when Horatio Spafford and his wife, Anna Larsen moved to Jerusalem. They had been Orthodox Presbyterians in Chicago and suffered a horrible fate of losing their children to illness and a boating accident. The Chicago church decided that God was punishing the family and they were ostracized--thus their move to Jerusalem. They established the American Colony whose mission was service to all. The colony offered hospitality and assistance to anyone requesting help and did so without any attempt to convert. This attitude won the confidence of Muslim, Jews, and Christians alike. Over time, other church members, particularly from Sweden traveled to and joined the colony.

In 1898 the colony invested in a camera and several colonists took over the role of photographer. Between 1898 - 1934 they took 5000 pictures covering the land of Palestine; they would sell the photographs to visiting tourists. They utilized lantern slides which are images on a glass plate made by a negative and then tinted and colored by hand. The tinting is so precise that the brush utilized consisted of one single hair. The following are but a few of my favorites:

Lantern slides and their projector.

A street in Nazareth.

A street in Nazareth.

The Tomb of Lazarus.

The Wailing Wall in Jerusalem.

Within the museum as one wanders via the Ashkenazi Synagogue Complexes...

A special chair for circumcision...

A Torah from the 12th Century..

Shabbetai Zevi: A false messiah. To me this was very interesting to read and learn about. In 1648, at the young age of 22, Mr. Zevi proclaimed himself to be the messiah. Over the next 18 years he had his ups and downs between his followers and detractors. Ultimately, in 1666, he resigned his self-proclaimed post and much to the chagrin of his many followers, he converted to Islam.

A beautiful carving....

Since before 1492, to escape persecution and the Spanish Inquisition, many Jews fled both Spain and Portugal and made their way to the Netherlands where they were allowed religious freedom and opportunities to integrate into the culture. WWII put an end to that prosperity. Within the Jewish communities around the country, there was much disagreement and controversy as to whether they should willingly comply with the registration required by the Nazis or fight those orders. Jewish leadership in Amsterdam asserted their hope that through compliance and cooperation with the Germans less harm might befall them. They were wrong. Of the Jews in Holland, 3/4 were deported to extermination camps where they would be tortured and murdered, via the German-run Westerbork transit camp. This camp was in the northeastern region of the Netherlands. From there they were sent to other German camps, most tragically Auschwitz in Poland, where they were murdered.

After the war, those Jews who survived found it difficult to return to the Netherlands. With the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948, many left and relocated in Israel.

Today, 43,000 live in the Netherland; over 50% reside in Amsterdam. 57% of Dutch Jews state that they do not practice any sort of religion.

Some scenes of a more current life.

Wandering Amsterdam...

Flying into Amsterdam it was a very clear day and as we came in for our landing we flew right over the city and countryside. The land is filled with hundreds of canals and from the air we saw the many dikes holding the sea at bay. (Made me think about Katrina and wonder why the US hasn't consulted more with countries like Holland who have long histories of dealing with flooding and prevention.) Also, from the air we saw the many windmills that are being utilized for power. Between the sight of the canals and the windmills, I knew we were in for an interesting visit. Both Jean and Kim have been to Amsterdam in the past; this was my first visit.

I mentioned canals in the last posting and here's what I mean.

We were on the Brouwer Street canal. Our apartment was on the upper floor of the building behind the tree.

Our view.

Stairs in Amsterdam are the most serious that I have ever encountered or experienced. They were intensely steep and a bit scary. They led to our third floor apartment.

I put these bungee cords across the top of the steps to protect us from falling down as we walked by or for the nighttime wanderer.

We liked our apartment --it had all the comforts except for one thing: there was no door on the bathroom and you accessed it via the bedroom. We had to all agree on having (mostly) our private moments.

Amsterdam is a city to explore and we enjoyed many hours of walking and taking in the sights.

Here's one of better days gone by.

These are tracks so that you can roll your bike in and out of your basement apartment.

Amsterdam has a long history of tolerance and democracy.

In fact, if you caught the John Adam's HBO series, you'd know that Mr. Adams came to Amsterdam to borrow money for the US in the early days of our history.

Just another interesting building...ho, hum.

This heron was so totally nonplussed with all of us excitedly taking pictures of it while having a moment atop this car.

Where to go? Where to go?

How about to a market?

And to, of course, The Tulip Market

From all that beauty to these little gems. They were all around the city. They are men's urinals and are just, "right there" in the middle of it all! What are the implications? What does it infer?
They were gross and we all said, "eeewww".

Let's get back to more beauty!

And then, we encountered this part of town...uh oh. Turn and run!

But, if one, say, were interested, there are choices to be had.

You may be wondering if all we did was walk around and take in the sights. Well, we did have cultural moments (Jewish Museum, Anne Frank Museum and the Van Gogh Museum) and I'll write about them soon. Thank you.

Amsterdam!!

Bikes, bikes, bikes! That be Amsterdam along with canals, canals, canals. Jean, Kim, and I were amazed at the number of bikes throughout the city. Biking is a major form of transportation but the city also has a small subway system, trolleys and buses--and don't forget those boats cruising down the canals. Oh, in case you may be wondering: No, no one wears a helmet. Check out mom with her kids. Also, the picture above mom is a bicycle parking garage at the train station.
The styles and configurations of bicycles was also very interesting. Some bikes were for hauling equipment, others could accommodate 3 - 4 children. The city is very flat and I imagine that helps a lot.

PS: Don't forget to double click on the collage and the pictures will enlarge.

Why We Are Here, Part II

Ken Ross
June 1, 1951 - January 28, 2009

John and Ken in the Spring of '08

I must take this time to revisit "Those No Longer With Us and Why We Are Here" (http://lifeinalessandria.blogspot.com/2008/06/those-no-longer-with-us-are-why-we-are.html) and add a part II.

The evening before Kim's departure from Seattle, Wednesday, January 28th at 10 PM, our friend Ken died, drifting away from us but forever residing in our hearts.

I still can see him in my mind's eye standing with his beloved partner, John, at the airport departure area as Kim and I walked toward security to begin our journey here to Italy. The smiles were abundant and broad as we happily waved to one another calling "See you again soon!" Did Kim and I know or really believe that upon our return Ken would be gone? No, not really. It was a thought that had occurred to us but like things that we don't really want to look at or believe, we pushed it away in a swoop of denial. By the time September came around and I returned to Seattle to offer help with a hospitalization, I knew the truth and carried that knowledge back with me. I knew then that I was saying goodbye, in person, forever.

Both Ken and John are the types of friends that are steadfast and true. They are the type of friend that you can call for anything at anytime day or night. I tended to call Ken "Big Brother" (and other unmentionable but endearing names) because he was the big brother I never had. Ken was someone who made you feel worthwhile and important. He was a very good listener and often would remark, "That is really a good point you've brought up." He knew a lot about so many things, intellectual and otherwise. He had a wicked wit and a tremendous sense of humor, rarely if ever, succumbing to self pity despite years of illness. He made the four of us laugh so hard whenever we were together even when we wanted to cry at what he was enduring. He was so happy with John and all their home and garden projects. I know he was happy to have died in their love filled home.

Ken would jump at any opportunity to help out with a project from hanging a picture to computer glitches to general problem solving. Before we left Seattle he tried to help me install an outside bolt/lock on our gate. Long story short, it really didn't work and the fence was left with a few extra holes. At the time I felt annoyance and frustration. But now upon our return to Seattle it will be where we will say hello each day as we walk by and run our hands over the mostly useless lock. For us it will be a shrine...

Kim did me proud as she returned to Seattle and remained present and available to the painful situation. Ken had his own special nickname for her which is "La Boca" (translation: "the mouth"). She tells me that he would smile whenever she'd whisper in his ear that La Boca was there...what an image! But what Kim mostly would tell me was how totally in awe she was of John and his care and devotion for Ken as he was dying. John was such a fierce advocate for Ken and put his whole heart and soul into making Ken comfortable and cared for as Ken transitioned away from us. Ken died surrounded by love not only from John but also from his family and close friends. Can we ask for more at such a time?

For now I know I am keeping the total truth at arm's length--this distance helps or rather, delays the impact. I do know that upon my return to Seattle I will have much to confront and take in. For now I ache for John and his loss as I hold away my own pending ache(s).

So now I end up back to where Kim wrote these months back regarding why this journey became essential. Essential despite the logic of finances and work responsibilities. Some of our closest friends are no longer here with us and their deaths have shown me that the time to act is now, especially when there is a dream at stake. There are always plentiful reasons to not do something and this can be okay. I have learned that it is important to be honest with myself and to acknowledge that I am making a choice. I hope to continue making choices, owning my choices, and then diving in to discover the experiences wrought from those choices. I don't know how much time remains for me. I do not assume that I will retire some day and then my opportunities will come,
Because:

Lindy died at age 62.

Shelle died at age 55.

Eileen died at age 55.

And our dear friend Val (no picture here with us) in London died at 48.

Ken died at the age of 57; before I know it, I will be turning 56. So, I'm thinking that by now you get my point....

To anyone reading this, examine your moments and choices. There always are options--perhaps not the one we'd hoped for; it may be a bit different than what would be perfect or ideal. Don't wait for perfect or ideal; it won't happen. If you want something, create it or at least try to and then go from there.

If you'd like to read more about Ken and how accomplished he was, please go to:

http://www.funerals.coop/obits.cfm?aId=23F51A27-C29B-57E0-8134E1ABEE6A2067

Thank you.