Wednesday, May 13, 2009

La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

What better way to bring our last month in Italy and Europe to a close than to travel to Barcelona with great traveling companions. Yes, Jean, Linde, Kim and I did Barcelona as only mid-50 year old's can--early to bed and early to rise with a ton of walking and laughter in between.

Barcelona is called "the most southern city of northern Europe" and is near to France which has had a long standing influence. It's not the place for siestas (sorry, Jean!) and the fiestas that we sometimes imagine Spain to be. It's the capital of a region, Catalunya, which has its own language and shared history. Most signs are translated into three languages--Spanish, Catalan, and English-- and the locals flow between Spanish and Catalan which sounds like a cross between Italian, French and Spanish....It's on the Mediterranean, is a vibrant port city, and has a history that hails from about 230 BC when Mr. Hannibal named it Barca after his father. From those early Carthaginian roots, today, a population of over 1.5 million in Barcelona proper call it home (4 million in the surrounding area). It's big, dense, and has a wonderfully inexpensive transit system that includes subways, trams, and buses; getting around is a breeze (especially if all you have to do is follow Kim and Jean who both love giving directions).

We called "home" a great little apartment that Kim found on the internet with a deck and view of one of Barcelona's main highlights--"La Sagrada Familia". La Sagrada Familia is a church which has more "contemporary" roots in that it was begun in 1882 by a rich publisher who was worried about "the growth of revolutionary ideas". In 1883 he turned the reins of design and building over to 31 year old Antoni Gaudi. Gaudi's is quite the story and if you'd like to know more about him, I suggest you google him. A quick piece of data on him is that as a child he was considered rather "frail" and spent a lot of time outdoors quietly observing nature. His building designs incorporate nature in such a way that was/IS rather astonishing. So much for those worrisome revolutionary ideas... So, if you've never met him, here he is along with some of his work:

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La Sagrada Familia



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The thing that we found ourselves quite impressed by was watching this actually being built. All of the cathedrals and sights we have seen from antiquity have left us wondering, "wow, what must it have been like to build this?" Perhaps 100 or 200 years from now, others will wonder the same thing.

On 7 June 1926[11] Gaudí was run over by a tram. Because of his ragged attire and empty pockets, many cab drivers refused to pick him up for fear that he would be unable to pay the fare. He was eventually taken to a pauper's hospital in Barcelona. Nobody recognized the injured artist until his friends found him the next day. When they tried to move him into a nicer hospital, Gaudí refused, reportedly saying "I belong here among the poor." He died three days later on 10 June 1926, at age 73, half of Barcelona mourning his death. He was buried in the midst of La Sagrada Família.[10]

Although Gaudí was constantly changing his mind and recreating his blueprints, the only existing copy of his last recorded blue prints were destroyed by the anarchists in 1938 during the Spanish Civil War. This has made it very difficult for his workers to complete the cathedral in the same fashion as Gaudí most likely would have wished. It is for this that Gaudí is known to many as "God's Architect". La Sagrada Família is now being completed, but differences between his work and the new additions can be seen.

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In 1987, Josep Subirachs, took over the helm and here are some of his influences:


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Not bad. Not bad at all, Senor Subirachs .

And, one final note of interest:
As of 2007, completion of the Sagrada Familía is planned for 2026. They wish to do this because it is the anniversary of his death. However, this may prove wildly optimistic if the worst fears of many eminent engineers and architects are realized[citation needed]. They have pointed out the structural dangers posed by a tunnel for a TGV-style high-speed rail, which would run within feet of the church’s foundations[12][1]; one might note the precedent of a metro tunnel in Barcelona’s Carmel district that collapsed and destroyed an entire city block on the 1st of February 2005.
uh oh. That won't be good.

Il Cenacolo, aka, The Last Supper

Two months ago we made reservations to view The Last Supper to coincide with our return from Barcelona. We arrived in Milan from Barcelona late in the evening and connections to Alessandria are basically impossible at that time so we spent the night and viewed the masterpiece before returning home the next day.

They let in a group of 25 every 15 minutes. You stay for 15 minutes and then they shoo you away for the next group. For me, it was totally worth it. I didn't know that it is a fresco painted against a huge church wall--the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Leonardo was experimenting with learning fresco techniques and painted it between 1495 - 1498.
It represents the scene from the final days of Jesus as narrated in the Gospel of John 13:21, when Jesus announces that one of his Apostles would betray him.
The Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie
was extensively bombed in WWII, but the wall holding The Last Supper remained standing.

The church care takers anticipated the bombing and built a scaffolding that was supported and padded by sand bags. It worked.

Deterioration of the paint began within six years of its completion (due to the fact that the technique was experimental). In 1978 a major restoration process took place that took 21 years and was finally completed in 1999. Of note is the fact that over the five centuries the fresco was "touched up" by many other artists.
If you double click and enlarge, you can see the names of the various apostles. The gentleman in the middle is Jesus (not named).
A not so smart individual cut out a door in 1652 that went right through the feet of Jesus. We miss out seeing that Leonardo painted His feet atop each other, a symbol of readiness for the nail and crucifixion.
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Here is where much controversy resides--you readers of Dan Brown's book will know that some theorize that this is Mary Magdalen to Jesus's right, and not the apostle, John. What do you think?
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Another very good day and wonderful opportunity. Thank you.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Where Babies Come From....

I keep forgetting to post these pictures of storks and their nests. We saw them while in Bildein, Austria and the little town of Pornoapoti, Hungary. Too great to not mention.


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Tomorrow we leave for Barcelona, Spain where we will hook up with both Linde and Jean. We'll be there six days. Speaking Spanish! Will I remember how? Stay tuned.
And thanks.
Oh, PS: Today is one of my baby sister's birthdays--Andela, aka, Andie. When I was seven she flew in on some storks to our home in Los Alamos. Here she is with husband Denis and son Quentin. Happy, happy new year!!
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Monday, May 4, 2009

Hot Italian Men, Sunday Dinner and Travel Details...

It's May. It's been warm and sunny. Our neighbors across the courtyard are, apparently, 5 men who are students attending nursing school. I peaked through our window covering and made this shot that I will always treasure.
Bea, Kim's friend from book club is here visiting. I made Sunday dinner and we invited Rita. The menu was enchiladas, frijoles, and Spanish rice. Rita has never had either dish. I bought the corn tortillas at the US commissary base in Landstuhl. Lynn and Susan brought over Hatch green chilis (the BEST in the universe) and so I was ready to impress Rita.
Rita brought (and made!) this beautiful torta.
There's Rita talking to Kim and friend, Bea, about women's employment and family issues following WWII
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Here's Rita's beautiful balcony--a delight to view each day.
Later, we walked to the train station because Bea will be traveling to Turin and the Cinque Terre while Kim and I will head out to Barcelona.
Kim teaches Bea how to read the train schedule "just in case something goes wrong".
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Friday, May 1, 2009

John Visits "The Eternal City"...

Many Miles of Wandering
Local faces...
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What a place!
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