Saturday, September 27, 2008

The Journey Continues...to Vienna!



I believe that it was Wednesday, September 24 that Kim and I arrived in Vienna. I left Seattle on Tuesday, flew to Amsterdam, changed planes, and flew to Milan. Once in Milan, I got on the wrong bus to the main train station (where I was to meet up with Kim so that we could take another bus to a different airport for our Vienna flight). Turns out that I was on a private chartered bus that was taking a group of Spanish tourists to a certain hotel. Where this hotel was, I cannot tell you; all I can say is that it cost me €25 to get myself back to the main airport where I purchased another bus ticket to get into Milan. When that bus arrived, it was too full and they would not let me on; the clock was ticking and my anxiety level was rising. So, another bus from another company arrived that had room and I purchased yet another ticket and headed into Milan to their Stazione Centrale where Kim and I happily met (€60 later).

From that station, we took another bus to the Bergamo Airport where our flight to Vienna awaited. That whole connection went rather smoothly with the one exception that I managed to somehow lose the rest of my money--about another €60. Where and how I managed to do that remains a mystery that has had many incarnations in my mind's eye. I was dead on my feet and stupid with fatigue and I guess none of this is too surprising. I have been visualizing a hungry person picking up the money and thanking the Universe for its care....

So, we are in Vienna, a city that I really love; I believe that this is my third visit. We are staying with Jean and her daughter, Naomi; thier computer will not accomodate our camera card so pictures will be a bit delayed...unavoidable technical details. Since we have been here other times and have visited many of the main sites, Jean has given us an out of print book entitled "In Search of Vienna: Walking Tours in the City". It takes the reader/walker on tours of hidden places and gives the history of their importance and uniqueness--kind of a "far from the madding crowd" experience.

So yesterday with book and map in hand, we set out for a relaxing day of walking, talking, and exploring. I have been ready for this. My time in Seattle was filled with intensity and a reality that I want to run from: my ill friend, an email announcing the sudden, tragic death of a friend's grandson, Galveston/Houston relatives taking in their losses, and another friend holding high hopes for a new job (this last one is not tragic but filled with hope and good wishes for one that I care deeply about). With each step along the Danube toward our our first tour destination, I feel my shoulders relaxing and I am re-entering my "Life in Alessandria" experience. My slowed brain is kicking into gear and realizing that 'si' and 'no' and 'non capisco' will not serve me here. I have gone from understanding a little to understanding nothing, zero, zilch. This, however, is manageable because in this very international city we hear multiple languages in the course of a few steps.

Touring Vienna often begins in the First District at St. Stephen's Cathedral. This massive church was built in 1137 and for over 800 years has been considered the heart of Vienna. When we entered, a mass was in progress and we were fortunate enough to hear the organ filling the massive structure with its majestic sound. Tourists and worshippers alike took in this sound and the music connected us to the past as well as to our present; hard to not feel chills at this type of moment...And, of course there were many opportunities to light candles. I chose the setting of the Madonna of Pötsch from Hungary where witnesses in the 17th century spread the story that real tears poured down the Madonna's cheeks. This is where people pray for a cure for the sick. In my lighting I had much to cover...

From St. Stephen's we wandered the old town following the guide book's tour to places such as 'Singerstrasse', one of the oldest streets in Vienna and Blutgasse (Blood Street) whose history includes Teutonic Knights, gruesome murders, and blood flowing in the street (picture above). We later found the first established bakery where the croissant's crescent shape became a symbol of Viennese resistance and ridicule against the Turkish invaders in the 1683 Siege of Vienna. From there we followed the trail of Mozart's rental apartments where he was visited by the likes of Haydn and Beethoven... There were a few more churches and hidden courtyards and before we could finish our tour it was time to head home.

All in all it was a day of aching feet rewarded by many splendid sights. As we walked back to Jean's along the Danube, we stopped for a few minutes to watch expert graffiti artists at work. This is the first time I can honestly say that I have appreciated their work. Until now, I have had many complaints about the grafitti throughout Italy and now in Vienna but that's another story for another time.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Hi Kim and Rachel,

Glad to hear you are together again and continuing your adventure. Enjoy Vienna. Tomorrow we are off to Italy and will be at our home near Lucca late Tuesday night. Let us know if you want to come visit for a night or two. We are pretty flexible as we have no guests this trip.

Saluti,

Louise