Yesterday we had a wonderful time at Alessandria's cemetery. It is one of our favorite places in town and yesterday, All Saints/Souls Day, we had a lot of company there. As a holiday honoring those "who have gone before us," there were so many people and so many flowers, it was amazing--so full of life. There were singles, couples and families- grandmas and grandpas with little grandchildren, teenagers and their parents, widows and widowers- all carrying flowers and plants of every kind. Not only were the graves flower laden and lovingly tended but throughout the catacombs, the numerous crypts in the mausoleum, illuminated by the soft glow of hundreds of candles were also absolutely lovely. There was a Mass going on outside of a little chapel on one part of the huge site, the audience primarily older women and a few nuns, but most people were talking and laughing among the tombs, carrying their gifts to their relatives.
Last week I had taken a Sunday walk through the cemetery while Rachel was having a lazy day at home. It wasn't a holiday but there were many families tending the graves and meeting friends who were there doing the same thing. I was so struck by one young woman, maybe only a teenager adorned in lots of metal in her lowslung black pants with a tattoo peeking out... scrubbing a gravestone, raking the plot, and planting flowers. The sight of her in the distance brought tears to my eyes. Later I casually walked by and noticed that the grave I had assumed was for a boyfriend or a brother or a sister, was not. Judging by the dates inscribed, most likely these were her grandparents so now I, of course, was shamelessly weeping.
* from a website: "How to Celebrate All Saints Day in Italy"
In Italy, All Saints Day is known as Tutti i Santi Ognissnati. (try saying that 3 times fast!) The Catholic holiday, commemorating the Saint Martyrs, is celebrated on November 1. The next day, All Souls Day, is set aside to honor loved ones who are deceased. Italians celebrate the two holidays together, both in association with the fall harvest which is reflected in the traditions of the day.
Step1 Begin All Saints Day the evening of October 31, All Hallow's Eve, by indulging in a traditional harvest feast. The menu includes the new unfermented wine from the year's harvest, known as Ribolla or Novello. (well we always have wine just not new and unfermented) Also eaten are roasted chestnuts. (Rachel will skip that) Don't worry about staying up too late (yeah right)--most places are closed the next day because All Saints Day is a national holiday.
Step2
Hide presents around the house for the children after they go to bed. In the morning a search will commence prior to visiting the cemetery. Children are told that if they behave well the souls of the deceased family members will remember them and bring presents. Children use the following traditional Sicillian saying to ask for gifts: "Armi santi, armi santi, Io sugnu unu e vuatri siti tanti, Mentri sugnu ‘ntra stu munnu di guai, Cosi di morti mittitiminni assai." The English translation is: "Holy souls, holy souls, I am one, and you are many. While I am in this world of troubles, bring me lots of presents from dead people."(I love that! Why do you have to be a kid?)Step3
Celebrate Mass at one of the many Italian Catholic churches. (okay now we're on our way to light candles in Church per Rachel's orders) While some of the typically visited Catholic sights like the Vatican Museum are closed for the holiday, St. Peter's Basilica in Rome is open and hosts the liturgical service on All Saints Day. Following Mass, proceed to the cemetery to visit the graves of your loved ones. It's customary to bring offerings of fall flowers to decorate the graves. Step4
Enjoy one of the many cultural festivals held across Italy. Many towns in northern and central Italy are host to truffle and chestnut fairs the first week of November. The week also marks the beginning of the opera season. Step5
Sit down to an All Souls' Feast with family and friends. Foods made of peas or lentils, known as Soul Food, are eaten. (Rachel didn't know this when she started cooking today. She is making her variation of tabouli salad and also beets marinated in olive oil, garlic and balsamico with bruschetta. The stores are closed so no peas or lentils, god forgive us). Many homes will set empty places and leave the door open for the souls of the deceased. The feast is finished up by indulging in the sweet cookie known as "Ossi di Morto" or "Bones of the Dead."(now I'm REALLY sorry the stores are closed, doesn't that sound appetizing??)
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