Saturday, November 22, 2008

Assisi....



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The train ride from Perugia to Assisi only took about 30 minutes. We rode through soft rolling hills of green, brown, and gold with a heavy mist emanating from the earth to meet the sky. It was the kind of scene we see in a movie when the knight, or our hero, comes riding over the hill toward the next adventure. From the train station, we caught a local bus that takes you up to the top of the town which was built upon a hill. Because of the heavy mist, we couldn't see the town which added a sense of mystery to our arrival.

Oh, what a beauty of a town it is! Once a very important Roman town, it's been amazingly preserved and a richness of history abounds. Of course, Assisi is famous for Francesco Bernardone, or Saint Francis, one of the most favorite s patron saints of Italy (and the world), and his counterpart, St. Chiara (Clare). The survival of Assisi is now based upon the presence of Francis and Chiara and it is a busy destination point for not only tourists but young and old pilgrims alike. Nuns, priests and monks are everywhere following the lives of these two who as young people, much to their parents' chagrin, gave up their family wealth to follow a path of poverty and saintliness. In 1206, a vision changed young Frances' life when he heard a voice coming from a wooden crucifix telling him to give it all up and follow God.



He stripped naked, turned his back on his father and his privileged life, and began wandering throughout Italy like a troubadour. He quickly amassed followers, including the young 18 year old Chiara, by preaching a message of peace, kindness, love of nature and equality. In 1233 he established his order of Franciscan Monks which quickly received the popes approval.

Both Francis and Chiara are entombed in their own churches and the visitor cannot help feeling some awe at being in such a setting. Below is the tomb of Saint Chiara--there is a wax figure on top and her remains are below within the tomb.


I couldn't bring myself to take a picture of St. Francis' tomb in the basement of the tremendous basilica that bears his name. It was a place of contemplation, prayer and silence. They had long candles that, with a donation, could be added to a basket in front of his tomb. Later, according to the sign, the monks would light the candles. Yes, of course I placed a candle in the basket.

This is the Basilica of St. Francis.

As with Perugia, Assisi is one photographic moment after another. There are many churches, a Roman Amphitheater and Temple of Minerva, incredible views, and wonderful medieval architecture. We wandered throughout this town each day with great enjoyment and fascination. Another fun thing was the number of clothing stores that were for clergy people with all the accoutrement necessary for running your church and looking good while doing so.



The final piece to this Assisi posting, part I, is a bit more information about young Francesco Bernardone--the future St. Francis. In 1202 he put on some armor and headed out to fight and battle the Perugians. Things didn't go so well and the then 20 year old Francesco was captured and put into a prison for about a year in Perugia. Upon his release, he returned as many Vets do, a changed man who avoided friends and had difficulty working even though his father offered him a company job. It was at this time that he spent many hours outside the city walls fasting, praying and searching for meaning to his life. I love the following picture which depicts his return. The iron cast statue is on the grounds of his Basilica of St. Francis.

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