Bologna and TrenItalia

I am nothing if not obsessive so first I'll get this off my chest. WHY can't the Italian train system be reliable? Why does it cost more to take the train than an airplane between major cities (here and all over Europe)? Why can't they announce the goddamn city that's coming up next? Why can't they give you more than a few inches of luggage space (yes, it is better on the newer trains but you have to get a newer train)? Why do they have 1 person working a window for assistance when the line is snaking out the door (shades of the American postal system...)? How is it possible that they remodeled our train station and it has NO elevator or escalator and has many, many stairs?? Why is a train station with no escalator (or luggage ramp)the NORM here in Italy? Why am I whining like this when it's the same or worse in the States? I don't know-it just feels good to put it all down like the American Princess that I am.

Okay... Venice to Bologna. No transportation hitches that I remember (my rant was for the Bologna to home leg)...

Bologna is a lovely city and while we only had 6 hours to explore we were able to comfortably navigate the major "sights" on foot. Obviously we just scratched the surface of what is there but I saw enough to know why some folks had suggested we consider Bologna for our year here. It is vibrant and charming and has a strong University feel. That's because it IS an ancient university city, the oldest in Europe (founded in 1088), with Italy's best medical school and one of its top business programs. From reading the billboards it also seems to have a very lively art scene and a lot of other cultural activities. We were pleased to read that it's a very liberal city and where the national gay alliance has its headquarters. And we already knew from Rita (who hails from nearby Ferrara) that the Emila-Romagna region is a haven of gastronomic delights but of course we needed to discover this for ourselves.

oops, sorry... the lasagna Bolognese, Gnocchi con
spinacci, insalata mista, and vino rosso are missing
from the picture...but trust me, it was all very good.

With a full stomach we could walk a lot further...


outside the Palazzo della Mercanzia (1391) which houses the local Chamber of Commerce, Industry, Crafts, and Agriculture Offices inside.... guess these guys did all right for themselves!

Then there are Bologna's "twin" towers that compete with the Leaning Tower of Pisa in "slant supremacy." One leans more than 7 feet and the other more than 11 feet from perpendicular! And check out the guy on the one that leans the furthest. Mamma mia!! The pictures do not capture the lean but when we were standing there looking up we were amazed that they were still standing- and what's more amazing is they have been standing like that since the 12th century! If one were so inclined (no pun intended) one could go to the top for a panoramic view.

From these architectural wonders we went up the street to discover 4 churches linked together. Apparently a church has stood on this site since the 5th century when it was converted from a Temple of Isis. Charlemagne stopped here to worship in the 8th century- pretty darn cool. These below, erected on the same site, are from the 11th and 12th centuries

I wish I could have adopted a more Christlike attitude when we hurried from our sightseeing to catch the train just to find out the train was 3 HOURS late- it was the only one of many, many trains going through Bologna that was retardo. I really did not want to get back home after 1am; managed to wait in line (yes, with the one window open) in an attempt to change our tickets- which I finally did- but not before shelling out another 50 euro and no guarantee that we will be refunded for the first set. So all those hours spent in the churches of Italy have done nothing for my soul apparently. Christ and Buddha and especially La Vergine would have had to cover their ears. I'm afraid I'm a lost cause and THAT night was a very poor example of my ability to "go with the flow." Poor, poor Rachel.